It is a perfect match for the Santos case, however, so I expect to see it in other models.Ī detail that emphasises the concentric cubic pattern is the contrast-colour railroad minute track, which is matched by an identically coloured logo under 12 o’clock. The concentric cubic pattern is a first for Cartier and still unique in the line up. It’s essentially a modern guilloche that’s made up of deeply grooved lines in a concentric cubic pattern, with the lines widely spaced so the aesthetic is entirely modern. In the same vein, the new Santos-Dumont has an unconventional finish. Take for instance the latest Tank Must that has dial with a two-tone finish that’s the result of electrochemical texturing. The classic Cartier dial is silvered and either grained or guilloche, but in recent years more finishes have become more varied and adventurous. The platinum version gets a ruby cabochon on the crown as is tradition at Cartier, while the other versions get a blue spinel And a new dial
The last step is the application of a thin layer of clear, protective varnish over the lacquer, which is necessary as the lacquer is softer than steel. The narrow recesses are filled with synthetic lacquer and then baked in an oven to set, before being polished to create a smooth, flush surface. It’s done in a three-step process that starts with engraving the a Santos-Dumont case to create recess for the lacquer. Flush with the case such that it seems to be a thin painted layer, the lacquered decoration is actually an inlay. Regardless of the size, it’s the lacquered inlays that make this special. The steel model looks just right with formal wear, so I like it as it is, though I imagine a larger size would give it the versatility to be a casual, everyday watch. It makes sense for the platinum and gold versions of the lacquered Santos-Dumont to be in the compact Large case since it’s a more elegant size, but the steel-and-black model should arguably be Extra-Large given its more contemporary feel. Perhaps to cater to as many as possible, Cartier has created three starkly different variants ranging from the most subtle in rose gold and cream to the daring in platinum and burgundy.
In fact, both the case and dial are unique in the brand’s catalogue, though I expect this won’t be the last of either given the strong commercial debut of the model.Ī lacquered case, however, isn’t for everyone. The new case decor, along with the new concentric-cube patterned dial, help distinguish the new model from its more ordinary counterparts in the Santos-Dumont line. More importantly, the steel version costs under US$6,000, which is good value considering not just the unusual execution but also the ultra-thin, hand-wind Piaget movement inside. Notably, the new Santos-Dumont is offered in stainless steel, which is uncommon for Cartier watches with a special finish or design as those tend to be limited editions. All three versions cost only slightly more than their non-lacquered equivalents, making each of them a compelling buy within their price category. And the pricing certainly adds to the appeal.
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